This film is about the industrial design of food. It’s structured around interviews with people in the industry, from psychologists to product designers. Interspersed with the talking bits are incredibly-fun shots of food, often having something weird done to it in slow motion to demonstrate a concept like crunchiness.
The food porn is worth the cost of admission and the interviews have lots of interesting tidbits. The problem with the film is that it doesn’t commit to just covering industrial food design, or psychological factors in food enjoyment, or how our senses perceive food. It’s a shotgun approach that will leave you feeling unsatisfied.
For example, Food Design opens with a shot of fishsticks and eventually discusses them in depth. But they don’t mention the history of fishsticks: they were developed as a control for product testing. Fish sticks are explained as appealing to people who don’t really like fish but they don’t interview anyone who’s actually involved in the design of fish sticks or go into any depth about how we experience eating them differently from a fillet of cod.
It is mentioned that food design is as old as agriculture; for example, the Dutch bred carrots to be the national colour. But the film mostly focuses on contemporary food design. In order to cover the breadth, the interviews with industry insiders are about the philosophy of their business. I’d be interested to see a documentary about the process of actually designing a new product, like this excellent Gladwell article.
Food Design dismisses organic food and raw vegetables in general. Consumers are framed as being concerned with pleasure above all else and therefore easily manipulated by food design. This would be fine for a focused documentary, but is odd when insightful industry professionals are asked to wax philosophical.