Posts Tagged ‘Clothes’

Oscars 2010 Best and Worst Dressed Men

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

Best


Colin Firth wore a shawl-collar tuxedo to the Golden Globes. Firth followed the rule that the Oscars is more formal than the Globes by wearing peak lapels, which are more formal than a shawl collar. The fit is better and I dig his bowtie and studs, but he’s docked points for an extra jacket button.


Taylor Lautner similarly demonstrated that the Globes are creative black-tie while the Oscars are a more serious matter. His jacket sleeves and pants were too long, but the thin shawl lapel with narrow trousers is definitely the fashionable look for a tuxedo.


Christoph Waltz actually wore the same fashionable style as Lautner with distinctive pointy shoes. His sleeves are a little better and he remembered to leave his watch at home.

Notable


Bradley Cooper wore an unfortunately-styled tuxedo over an awesome double-breasted formal vest.

Worst


James Cameron, on the other hand, wore a lounge vest that’s too small, making him look like a sausage (maybe it was supposed to act as a girdle?). Combined with a four-in-hand tie and aqua pocket square, he looked like the loser he turned out to be.


Jeremy Renner combined a bad vest with the tie and pocket square he wore to his highschool prom.


Jamie Fox wore a smoking jacket?!


And Robert Downey Junior dressed in a rumpled child costume complete with clip-on bowtie: so much for most improved!

Creative Nonfiction about Mens Clothes

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

There’s a subculture of men’s clothing fans known as “trads”. They wear clothes that are inspired by (or, preferrably, actual vintage) traditional American menswear. It’s more of an Ivy League / Martha’s Vinyard look than Mad Men.

Brooks Brothers is the most mainstream retailer they’ll shop at. (Brooks Brothers invented the button-down collar in 1896, which is what I think of as being the item that best defines trads.) Ralph Lauren is inspired by traditional Americana, but trads are looking for the actual look, not a modern take.

Most trads are middle-age and of a build that is flattered by a sack suit (although I know a few exceptions). The Ask Andy About Clothes forum is their headquarters. Trads do a lot of research into quality clothing, so they’re on my radar even if I don’t follow their style (although I’m sure some would beg to differ).

I recently came across this wonderful blog called The Trad. Each post starts out discussing a piece of clothing or other material good that a traditionally-minded gentlemen might wear. The posts usually end with a quirky bit of creative nonfiction. Here’s a recent favorite:

During an after work drinks party I wound up sitting across from a friend’s very attractive assistant. I was bumming Marlboro Lights from her and she was drinking as many Miller Lights as I could order.

Five or six beers in to the night she arched an eyebrow (I wish I could do that) and said, “That’s a very attractive suit. ” I blushed visibly. “Do you like it?” I said. “Mmmm, very much,” she said. I explained to her it was Made To Measure and not custom and explained the difference adding, “I picked the color of the lining myself.” She smiled, “Show me your lining.” I unbuttoned my jacket and parted the lapels. She shifted in her seat and whispered, “Oh, I think I’m getting wet.”

I only remember thinking, “If this is what Made to Measure can do — What in the hell happens with bespoke?”

Golden Globes 2010 Best and Worst Dressed Men

Tuesday, January 19th, 2010

Best

Colin Firth
Colin Firth was just about the only person who got all the details right on his tuxedo (or “dinner jacket”, as he would say). His jacket sleeves are riding up in some of the photos, but since I have exactly the same problem with my tuxedo, I’m not going to dock him points for that. :D

Taylor Lautner
If I were a 17-year-old wearwolf, I’d wear a crazy-shiny black suit like Taylor Lautner. But I’d know that a crazy suit is enough and wear a classic shirt and tie.

Most Improved

Compare to the 2009 Oscars.

Mickey Rourke
Mickey Rourke actually seems to have a black tie uniform: he’s not just wearing random shit. All-black is easier on the eyes than the white from the Oscars. Snakeskin lapels are amusingly over the top.

Robert Downey Jr
Omitting a tie is probably within Robert Downey Jr’s artistic license and much less of a disaster than past outfits. His peak-lapelled tuxedo is pretty good: big shirt studs, silk pocket square, he even has a cummerbund! The only acceptable watch to wear to something like this is a big diamond-encrusted one worn over the shirt sleeve.

Worst

Kevin McHale
I liked Kevin McHale’s (Glee) outfit when I could only see the bowtie. When I saw that it was an oversized black suit with the bottom button incorrectly fastened, he ended up here. (Note: McHale is 21 – no excuse for dressing like his character.) His costar Matthew Morrison almost fell this far as well.

Brenden Gleeson
Brenden Gleeson is a good example of why you can only wear a tuxedo with an exposed waist if you’re a rough&tumble James Bond.

A Fashion Triptych

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

Obliquely because of Coco avant Chanel, and partly because of my recent obsession with photography, I’ve been watching documentaries about fashion.

Fashion and photography are siblings — the arts of seeing and of being seen. Aside from live shows, and what’s worn in the café, photography is the prime medium used to communicate about fashion. It also informs photography, and not just wrt advertising: Any photograph that includes faces or spaces inherently also contains an element of mode de vie.

Valentino: The Last Emperor

Okay, this one is mostly about how to be a giant fucking baller when you have infinite money and lots of villas.

Fashion Director: His dogs are Spartan. They don’t have a wardrobe.
Majordomo: What about the cashmere jackets?
Fashion Director: Well, they only wear those when he’s skiing in Gstaad.

The special features are required watching and the documentary itself is actually pretty amusing. It’s obviously all done to the aggrandizement of Valentino’s massive ego, but it somehow comes across as deserved. Masterful propaganda. :)

According to Wikipeda Valentino’s signature epy-red, rosso Valentino, in CMYK, is (0%, 100%, 100%, 10%), which I’ve reproduced in Photoshop:

Rosso Valentino

Anna Wintour makes an appearance in the “big show” set piece around which the film is constructed.

The September Issue

This one follows Grace Coddington and Anna Wintour as they put together Vogue’s 840-page 2007 September issue. Wintour’s stolen the narrative of the film — she’s one of its USPs and the supposed basis of Meryl Streep’s character in The Devil Wears Prada — but Coddington is the creative force, spending most of her time setting up photographic homages to Brassaï and beautiful color blocking shots for Anna to nix.

Lagerfeld Confidential

I watched this because Lagerfeld visits Valentino in the first film above to congratulate him. Comparing Lagerfeld to Valentino you can see why the latter deserves the “Emperor” sobriquet — Lagerfeld is an artist, and Valentino something else entirely. Also, in a pleasant show of accidental wabi-symmetry, Grace Coddington makes a pre-show appearance at Chanel’s apartment (which was featured in avant).

The distro on TPB needs subtitles unless you parlez. Luckily they’re easy to find.

Lagerfeld comes across as highly-eccentric and perhaps more psychologically damaged than he cares to admit. He started shooting in the 80s because no one around him was doing it right, and his implicit advice to new photographers seems sound: Put in a bit of practice and you’ll see that you’re not terrible.

Obama’s State Dinner Tuxedo Fail

Thursday, November 26th, 2009

Barack Obama in a tuxedo with annotations

Tuxedos should be different from black business suits because a black-tie event is not a business event held after dark. Barack Obama’s state dinner tuxedo had two traditional differences:

  • silk lapel facings
  • fabric-covered buttons

But his tuxedo was more like a suit than a traditional tuxedo in a number of ways:

  • notch lapels as opposed to dramatic peaks or a graceful shawl
  • a second (unused) front button, which interrupts the smooth line below the button
  • flap pockets (hard to see in this pic), which is similarly disruptive

His sleeves and pants are far too long, hiding his shirt cuffs and puddling at his ankles. Because of his sleeves, you can’t see it, but he’s wearing a watch. Wearing a watch at this kind of event is faux pas because it implies you have another engagement starting later. Besides, doesn’t Reggie Love tell him what time it is?

His tuxedo shirt with gold studs is fine. His bow tie is real and well propotioned. I personally don’t love his choice of patent blucher shoes, but it’s not against the rules.

The fit is acceptable, although a slimmer tuxedo would show off Barack’s body. Surprisingly, Joe Biden’s tuxedo isn’t much better. This administration needs a stylist!

Michelle’s Three Ugly Dresses

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009

Editors’ note: Kyla actually wrote this with the rest of her criticism back when it was, ahem, more relevant, but we split it into two posts and forgot about posting the second half until now.

Election Night

The most puzzling of all Michelle Obama’s clothes is her election night dress, which looks so off because it’s a Narciso Rodriquez runway dress that was modified to remove the sheerness in the skirt and straps and make it more soccer-mom friendly with broader straps, a modest neckline (Ms Obama almost never shows even a hint of cleavage, except in formal wear), and a longer A-line bottom. The neckline no longer echoes the ‘V’ of the bodice or contains any edge whatsoever.

It looks like it was chosen to try and make her look 20 lbs skinnier with the black bars on the sides (also broadened so they cover more), and the V’s of red created by the ribbon bodice thing attempt to force an hourglass. It’s an obvious attempt to create a body that’s not hers, and the forced modesty completely destroys the style of the dress, including the fussy out-of-place cardigan she put over it.

Inauguration Day

The colour was nice: an unusual, peppy yellow-green. That, coupled with the green gloves, are really the only things I liked about that outfit. The National Post linked to this pic of Pat Nixon:

And yeah. That really says it all. The dress was very conservative and “typical First Lady” for a woman who has never dressed First Lady but, as I said in my last post, prefers One Of The People. It looked like an awkward costume, made all the more awkward by the attempts to make it different, which fell flat. While I liked that she played with silhouette with the long coat and shorter skirt, the long, loosely-closed and flapping coat looked more like a housecoat. It was bad enough when I thought she put yet another cardigan under it, but then I heard those were panels sewn onto the front of the dress. Eww. And she should have gone with dark green or brown shoes, not medium green. And could have done without the white sheer pantyhose. Not to mention, she looked cold.

Inauguration Ball

Michelle, stop raiding the Whitehouse closets; it’s unbecoming:

Actually, Nancy did it better: it’s white and one-shouldered, but aside from the subtle patterning, it’s simple and clean. Michelle’s was all over the place. It had pleats, gathers, fabric petals, beads, a train, and asymmetry. Two, Michelle, choose two of those things then let the rest go. She’s tall and not overly thin, so she has presence automatically. That much going on is just a wall of stuff. Someone suggested that it was just a bad gown for TV, since you couldn’t really see the details and it just looked like cotton balls. I agree, I bet it looked better in person. That doesn’t make it suck any less when it’s on TV.

Oscars 2009 Best and Worst Dressed Men

Monday, February 23rd, 2009

Best

Will Smith

Will Smith’s shawl-collar, double-breasted tuxedo stands out in a good way. It fits him perfectly. He tied his own bow-tie and remembered to wear shirt studs. The shawl lapels are wide enough that he can even pull off a broach.

Dev Patel

Dev Patel is a skinny dude so he wore a skinny tux. It’s slim-cut single-button with a narrow shawl lapel. His bow-tie is the perfect size and the shirt’s ruffled placket is a neat touch, too bad the sleeves weren’t a bit longer. The flap pockets are also unfortunate.

Hugh Jackman

Hugh Jackman’s main costume was a perfect classical tuxedo with a shawl-collared vest. The only problem with his outfit was the shirt buttons, which is a mistake also made by a lot of his guests.

Mickey Rourke

We expect Mickey Rourke to be dressed crazy, but his white suit with black vest was actually kind of a reasonable way to say “fuck convention”.

Honourable Mention

John Legend

John Legend’s brown suit-tuxedo is bad (worst dig: “was he sponsored by UPS?”), but if you must wear a four-in-hand tie, as many stars do, you should at least kick it up a notch with a tie clip or pin.

Worst

Brad Pitt

Given that he’s one of the most-photographed people there, you think he’d get a real bow-tie. Maybe he could have asked his dozens of nannies if any of them know how to tie one? Brad Pitt’s tuxedo was lacking in all sorts of other details.

Philippe Petit

I’d like to think that Philippe Petit’s weird shiny suit and dandified white scarf were some kind of commentary on America. But I suspect the real explanation is that French entertainers dress just as badly as entertainers in other countries.

Philip Seymour Hoffman

Philip Seymour Hoffman looks like he’s attending his own funeral, but that’s better than last year when he was attending his own prom. I’m not even going to mention the toque.

Sean Penn

Sean Penn wore the worst of all possible shirts. First, it’s nearly as dark as his tux (midnight blue rather than black), which is a cool look if you’re an appropriate age to date Miley Cyrus. Second, the collar doesn’t fit, so he has to leave it unbuttoned. And finally, it’s a button-down collar, which I don’t like for casual wear but can’t even conceive of for formal wear – and he makes it even worse by undoing the buttons! Amazing.

Barack Obama Dresses as The Help

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

(If this blog had archives, I would link you to the many clever posts I have written in the past about menswear, but since it doesn’t you’ll just have to take my word for it.)

Barack Obama had two signatures in his dress during the campaign: blue ties with charcoal suits – which passes for daring in the uniformity of Washington – and contemporary-cut suits, which are appropriate for his age and build. Yesterday he showed up to get inaugurated in the red tie + navy suit uniform of Washington, signifying that rumours of Change are overrated, and baggy, pleated, cuffed pants ending above some business-casual shoes.

The last time anyone cared what a President wore to their inauguration was when Kennedy wore his hat (and morning dress), so Barack can be excused for just throwing something on during the day. But his evening dress is inexcusable: a weird hybrid of suit, black-tie and white-tie – exactly the kind of thing upper-class families dress The Help in so there’s no mistaking them as guests. This outfit would easily have made one of my Oscars worst-dressed lists. (The invitation specified black-tie, which means Michelle was overdressed in her ball gown.)

Maybe the transition team overlooked someone to help Barack get dressed in the morning? I can only hope that a protocol officer in Clinton’s State Department takes care of him before he makes a serious mistake, like wearing a tie to sit down with Mahmoud Ahmadinejad.

Michelle Obama Has No Style

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009

I believe it was Jared who first described Michelle Obama as the First Soccer Mom. Instead of favouring the high-end conservative clothing of previous first ladies, Ms. Obama appears to favour clothing most often seen on the “stylish” soccer mom at the church social. Maybe she really is a soccer mom to the core, or maybe she wants to appear to be “one of the people” in direct opposition to Cindy McCain’s socialite style, but either way it is working, because her campaign outfits become iconic in Middle America.

Black and white dress from The View

Ms Obama has a narrow fashion profile, wearing the same things over and over: below-the-knee A-line skirts, scoop-neck or crew-neck sleeveless shirts, dark cardigans, and either low-heeled pointy pumps or flats.


When she wears dresses, they usually conform to the same silhouette.

With the addition of the occasional fairly plain shift dress

She is apparently pants-challenged, as evidenced by too-short-to-be-pants-too-long-to-be-clam-diggers or the sweatpants she started wearing to rallies shortly before the election. (See, she’s just like you!)

She also has a thing for accessories. She wears a charm necklace with a dogtag reading “Hope” and a very sparkly tiny peace sign. She wears pearls often (oh how First Ladyish!), but opts out of the classic look and instead wears a variety of strand lengths and seems to favour jumbo pearls.

She is famous for wearing a lot of broaches, often multiple at a time.

She is attempting to create a signature style: soccer mom if they had money and cultural capital. Her looks are easy for other middle-aged women to replicate: fake pearls, flower-print skirts, and odd broaches are slightly odd but women can easily afford to go out and buy half a dozen to look like her. But there’s nothing classic or elegant about her clothes, they’re all mall-style. She may be a style icon for the housewife set, but it’s not a timeless look, nor an interesting one: she’s no Jackie O.